SCC77 Day 2: Microbiome, Vegan Protein, Recombinant Collagen, Sebum/Pore Control Plus President's Lunch

Day two of the 77th Society of Cosmetic Chemists' Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase (SCC77) welcomed attendees with a continental breakfast, technology and poster showcase, and a reality check in terms of what we think we know about the skin microbiome.

Missing Parts of the Microbiome and Why We Are 'Rusting'

Frontiers of Science Keynote Lecturer Larry Weiss, M.D., of Symbiome, presented, "Back to Health - An Evolutionary Biology Perspective on the Skin Microbiome."

Frontiers of Science Keynote Lecturer Larry Weiss, M.D., of Symbiome, presented, "Back to Health - An Evolutionary Biology Perspective on the Skin Microbiome." Weiss reminded attendees of how complex the microbiome is and showed how modern living has stripped away our ancient defenses. This includes the skin microbiome's historic role in providing an energy-driven approach to protection against UV-induced free radicals and metabolic support. Weiss provided a case study of the skin microbiome of an isolated community of Yanomami hunter-gatherers living deep in the Venezuelan Amazon rainforest untouched by modern civilization. 

Weiss provided a case study of the skin microbiomes of the isolated Yanomami community in Venezuela.

"For most of the past 200,000 years, our species, Homo sapiens lived in nature as foragers, creatures of scarcity. Like all other animals, our skin was blanketed with a diverse environmental biofilm that harmonized us with our environment, protected us from UV and oxidative stress, and provided secondary metabolic support. Today, we spend most of our time indoors and engage in hygiene practices that have stripped us of this biofilm. As a result, our skin is 'rusting’ (oxidizing) and starving, which predisposes us to inflammation." In response, Symbiome has developed precision PostBiomics, proprietary fermented postbiotics that restore lost biofilm function to improve skin resilience and health.”  

Weiss also cautioned about using marketing claims such as microbiome friendly that have not been clinically validated. "When I was at AOBiome we coined the term biome-friendly to describe ingredients and products that were compatible with Nitrosomonas eutropha, the beneficial bacteria found in Mother Dirt Probiotic Mist." He added that without clinical validation, using these terms may confuse or mislead consumers. He also emphasized, "since microbiome science is still in the early stages, we need to be cautious about making unverified or deceptive marketing statements that could erode our credibility once we have a more complete understanding of the subject."

"We used to have a biofilm," Weiss explained. "Bacteria resolved REDOX but now, [without it], essentially, we're 'rusting.'" He added that bacteria also previously provided metabolic support and communicated with our immune system.

"The big message for the microbiome is that everything is connected and those connections are invisible, microbial and ancient," he concluded. Notably, he reminded the audience that essentially everything reported about the skin microbiome in the literature to date refers to microbes that are engrafted into our skin. “We are only just beginning to understand the complexity and functional contribution of the environmental biofilm that enveloped us throughout evolution but has been lost in the modern world.”

Vegan Protein, Conditioning Efficacy and Recombinant Collagen in Hair

The conference then broke into two concurrent sessions on modernizing hair care and the future of skin care. In hair care, a major focus was on plant proteins and recombinant proteins for hair repair and protection. 

Vegan, upcycled hair repair protein: Allison Garlet, of BASF France, highlighted a new vegan, keratin-like filler to protect hair. The ingredient, Kerasylium (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Silybum marianum Seed Extract), derived from upcycled Silybum marianum seedcake extract (SMSE), is said to contain similar amino acids to keratin. Using an optimized extraction process, the company isolated a micro-complex of nutrients and peptides from this source, which were explored to improve hair condition.

Damaged hair treated with the extract was shown via FTIR to resemble the vibrational signature of untreated virgin hair. According to Garlet, the product penetrated  hair, including the cortex and damaged cuticle, stabilizing the hair structure via molecular bonding and imparting breakage protection against, for example, oxidative stress from urban particulate matter; testing showed hair integrity was preserved by 59%. The ingredient also provided a metal protection index of 63%. Finally, a clinical study of 31 women with self-perceived hair damage used an SMSE shampoo and conditioner and reported less splitting, less chemical stress and improved vitality, volume and shine versus the placebo treatment. 

Hair conditioning dynamics: Marni Dexter, of Croda, then showed how to evaluate the effects of ingredient compositions on the structure, stability and hair protection efficacy of conditioners. She described surface friction evaluations using behentrimonium methosulfate as well as tests of varying ratios of fatty alcohols to behenamidopropyl dimethylamine (BAPDMA) (e.g., citric acid, lactic acid and gluconic acid), which provided a range of textures, consistencies and stabilities.

Dexter concluded that formulations with BAPDMA showing lower shear viscosity and low yield stress gave improved conditioning performance with respect to wet combing and surface friction — independent of the ingredients selected. In addition, the approach to achieving lower viscosity is dependent on the conditioning ingredient and the acid used, where: BTMS and BTAC required high quat to fatty acid ratios or low concentrations of BTMS, and BAPDMA requires and optimized ratio with a high concentration of BAPDMA.

Shuxian Hu, of Trautec, described the production of a 100% pure recombinant collagen for hair regrowth.

Recombinant type XVII collagen in hair care: Shuxian Hu, of Trautec, described the production of a 100% pure recombinant collagen having the same sequence as natural human collagen for high bioactivity and tolerability. The ingredient showed no cytotoxicity, improved cell migration better than human collagen and promoted basal membrane activity, assisting with dermal-epidermal junction repair. A clinical study of a serum containing the ingredient found that after two weeks of microneedle applications, subjects saw reduced hair loss and improved hair density and diameter; microneedle injections of the ingredient after three months provided significant improvements.

A clinical study of a serum containing the ingredient found that after microneedle applications, subjects saw reduced hair loss and improved hair density and diameter.

The modern hair science session wrapped up with Ernesta Malinauskyte, Ph.D., of TRI Princeton, who focused on the science and beauty of textured hair.

Sebum, Pore Size Control and More to Advance Skin Care 

In parallel, a session on the future of skin care opened with a combination of methods including metagenomic and droplet-based microfluidic technology to study sensitive skin microbiota, presented by Manon Gault, Ph.D., of BASF France. 

Lilian Mussi, of Chemyunion, Inc., spoke on the synthetic tripeptide-85 (L-glutamyl-L-valyl -L-phenylalanine) and its unique melanocortin receptor-5 (MC5R) mechanism to control sebum.

Tripeptide for sebum and pore size control: Lilian Mussi, of Chemyunion, Inc., then spoke on the synthetic tripeptide-85 (L-glutamyl-L-valyl -L-phenylalanine) and its unique melanocortin receptor-5 (MC5R) mechanism to control sebum at any life stage as well as pore size, with immediate and lasting effects. The impact of the ingredient on lipogenesis gene expression biomarkers revealed:

• a 15% reduction of PLIN2, which stimulates the differentiation of sebocytes and favors the accumulation of lipids in cells;
• a 20% reduction of c-MYC, which regulates the size and differentiation of sebocytes; and
• a 13% decrease in SCD-1, which stimulates the synthesis of unsaturated fatty acids and the development of sebocytes.

Mussi concluded that tripeptide-85 could balance and mattify oily skin and visibly minimize pore size.

Mussi concluded that tripeptide-85 could balance and mattify oily skin, reduce sebum production by 30% after 14 days, act on young and mature skin and visibly minimize pore size.

Cellulose, massage, and immunocosmetics and the microbiome: Rounding out the advanced skin care session, Clementine Fabre, of Anomera, sought to decode cellulose and its critical attributes for formulation efficacy. Alicia Roso, of Seppic, examined the dynamics of a skin care emulsion paired with massage. Finally, Morgan Drohan, of Active Concepts, considered immunocosmetics and the skin microbiome.

President's Awards Luncheon

The president's luncheon and business meeting, sponsored by Registrar Corp., featured awards presentations to four outstanding individuals, thanks and recognition to 2022-23 board members, a welcome to incoming 2023-24 board members and the passing of the SCC Presidential gavel from Mark Chandler, of ACT Solutions Corp., to Tony O'Lenick, of Surfatech/Nascent Technologies.

SCC President, 2023-24, Tony O'Lenick, Surfatech and Nascent Technologies

The society's highest honor, the Maison G. de Navarre Medal Award, was presented to Ashland principal scientist Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D., for his exceptional technical contributions to the cosmetic industry. Liz Streland, of BASF, received the SCC Merit Award for outstanding service, distinguished leadership and exceptional contributions to the society on a national level.

The Florence Wall Women in Cosmetic Chemistry Award was presented to Dawn Burke-Colvin, of Mary Kay, which recognizes a woman for significant accomplishments in the industry including technical contributions, leadership skills and business excellence. Finally, the Robert A. Kramer Lifetime Service award recognized Gene Frank, Ph.D.,  of Solo Laboratories, for his extraordinary service and distinguished leadership in society over the course of his membership.

The outgoing and incoming SCC executive officers also were recognized. Outgoing members included Secretary Qihong Zhang, Ph.D., of the Estee Lauder Cos.; Area I Director Marie Thadal, of Coptis, Inc.; Area II Director Melissa Christenson, of BRIDGE product design and development; and now-Immediate Past President Mark Chandler, of ACT Solutions Corp.

The 2024 incoming board members include the following.

President: Anthony J. O’Lenick, Surfatech Corp.; Dacula, GA; SCC Southeast Chapter
Vice President: Akshay Talati, R.Ph., Goop; Santa Monica, CA; SCC Long Island Chapter
Vice President-Elect: Marisa Plescia, Bell International Laboratories; Eagan, MN; SCC Twin Cities Chapter
Secretary: Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D., Nutrafol; New York, NY; SCC New York Chapter
Treasurer: Yulia A. Park, Ph.D., Amway Corp.; Ada, MI; SCC Michigan Chapter
Area I: Senior Area Director Volodymyr Onyshchak, The Estée Lauder Cos., SCC Long Island Chapter; and Area Director Amy Marshall, ECKART America; SCC New York Chapter
Area II: Senior Area Director Sophie Bonham, Cosmos Corp., SCC St. Louis Chapter; and Area Director Caryn Weiss, Amway; SCC Michigan Chapter
Area III: Senior Area Director Aaron Peterson, Barnet Products, SCC Intermountain West Chapter; and Area Director Valerie George, Simply Formulas, Inc., SCC California Chapter
Area IV: Senior Area Director Cubie Lamb, J. Strickland & Company, SCC Southeast Chapter; and Area Director Cynthia Johnson, Cindy J Cosmetic Labs, LLC, SCC Mid-Atlantic Chapter
Area V: Senior Area Director Lionel Ripoll, Ph.D., Université du Québec à Chicoutimi, SCC Québec Chapter; and Area Director Dorothy Maraprossians, Azelis Canada, Inc., SCC Ontario Chapter.

The luncheon flowed into the exhibition and posters for networking and reconnecting, before afternoon sessions reconvened on all-inclusive beauty and more skin care advancements.