From strong lashes to calm complexions, color cosmetics are being asked to do more.
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From strong lashes to calm complexions, color cosmetics are being asked to do more.
The days of concealer merely concealing and lip gloss merely glossing? We can safely say those days are in the rear-view mirror. As we’ve seen over the years with skin care, multitasking beauty has become the norm, and today’s consumers expect their cosmetics to provide much more than aesthetic benefits.
“More and more, we are seeing the demand for color cosmetic products that do not just cover imperfections, but also offer some additional improvement to the skin,” says Melissa Bergman, business development manager, Solabia USA + Applechem. “We see this in the increase in interest in tinted sunscreens, setting sprays with hyaluronic acid, or even in the use of ceramides in lipsticks. The expectation is not just ‘look good, feel good’ but also ‘feel good, look better.’”
Indeed, the key to leveling up color cosmetics’ functionality often lies in active ingredients, and outstanding suppliers around the globe are delivering solutions that offer top performance and lasting results. Read on for more on innovative actives that are stirring up success in the cosmetics category.
Activate: Strong Lashes
Microalgae-powered beauty: Isochrysis galbana, sustainably developed through "blue biotechnology," brings Tahiti's richness to MPlus Cosmetics.MPlus Cosmetics
MPlus Cosmetics provides both through the addition of the microalgae Isochrysis galbana, a standout ingredient rich in biologically active compounds native to Tahiti.
According to Dagna Garcia, R&D and innovation manager at MPlus Cosmetics, the ingredient is developed through a sustainable process known as “blue biotechnology,” ensuring the highest quality with stringent control over biomass production and the careful selection of additives.
She says, “Isochrysis galbana is prized for its powerful strengthening effect on eyelashes, and when paired with our innovative tubing mascara, which completely coats the lashes in a 360° effect, we have achieved extraordinary results. The tubing mascara also stands out for its gentleness—it can be removed with just lukewarm water, without the need for makeup removers. This gentle approach complements the active ingredient, further preserving the health of the lashes and strengthening them without compromising their natural structure.”
Activate: Smoother, Younger Skin
Well-aging in beauty is alive and well, and actives delivering skin care benefits into cosmetics are resulting in younger-looking skin. Also key are actives that can prevent makeup from settling into fine lines in the lips and skin, thereby aging the consumer. 
Revolutionizing Beauty: Active Ingredients and Hybrid Makeup for Youthful SkinAdobeStock by DimaBerlin
Delivering product multifunctionality and anti-aging performance is the new Givaudan Active Beauty [N.A.S.] Vibrant Collection of vegan botanical extracts for hybrid and active makeup.
“Crafted through green fractionation, the [N.A.S.] Vibrant Collection comprises five potent natural extracts,” explains Justine Thuleau, category manager, visuals and botanicals, Givaudan Active Beauty. “Highly concentrated in bioactive compounds, these powder extracts offer strong antioxidant properties and each deliver additional skin benefits.”
Included in the collection are [N.A.S.] Curcuma 7409, a soothing rhizome extract derived from Curcuma longa L; [N.A.S.] Gardenia 2168, an anti-aging active extracted from Gardenia florida L; [N.A.S.] Spirulina 2183, a Spirulina platensis G-based, brightening algae extract; [N.A.S.] Radish 1805, designed to offer skin protection and derived from the root of Raphanus sativus L; and, [N.A.S.] Radish 2364, an antiglycation radish extract designed to provide anti-aging benefits, also derived from the root of Raphanus sativus L.
Thuleau says, “Turmeric, gardenia, radish and spirulina are iconic naturals chosen for their rich composition in bioactives and antioxidant potential. A specific patented process ensures the stability of the composition of the extracts and bioactive compounds, preserving their organoleptic properties and appearance. The oil-dispersible powders deliver their biological efficacy in makeup without compromising color performance, ensuring intense and stable color over a prolonged period.”
Spectra Colors Corp. recently released water dispersible iron oxides, with key applications ranging from lotions and masks to lipstick, eye shadow and foundation.
Says Alexis Capik, president at Spectra Colors, “These stand out through their uniform dispersion and exceptional anti-settling and wetting properties for cosmetics applications, and impart a powdery touch sensation on the skin.”
Capik adds that no grinding is needed in formulation, and the iron oxides are dispersible in both water and glycol.
Activate: Calm Complexion
The base cosmetic layer for the face—whether it’s foundation, BB cream, powder or otherwise—is expected to not just hide imperfections; it’s expected to correct them. New actives are delivering unprecedented results.
Solabia USA + Applechem’s Serenibiome is a glycolipid acquired through biofermentation of the Pseudozyma flocculosa plant fungus. Designed for sensitive skin care applications, the COSMOS-approved ingredient calms neurogenic inflammation and promotes skin barrier repair.
“As our understanding of the role of the skin microbiome in general skin health continues to expand, there is more emphasis on the role that microbial imbalance plays in sensitive skin conditions,” says Bergman. “For example, the severity of atopic dermatitis is associated with the over-proliferation of the pathogenic bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus, on the skin. Serenibiome bioselectively targets Staphylococcus aureus to relieve symptoms of sensitive skin prone to atopic dermatitis. While the pigment in a color cosmetic formula masks the uneven appearance of the skin, active ingredients for sensitive skin, such as Serenibiome, comfort skin underneath makeup.”
Keep an eye on this active, as it has already been awarded the NYSCC Ingredient Maverick Award.
Glow Under Makeup: The Inkey List's New Exosome-Powered Skincare RevolutionThe Inkey List
Also making strides in the field are active-packed products designed to be worn under makeup. Just launched from The Inkey List is the Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex, featuring its standout exosome actives. According to the company’s CEO and cofounder, Mark Curry, the product is perfect for “skintellectuals,” explaining that exosomes function as nano-sized postmen, carrying growth factors, proteins and more. The product is designed to increase collagen production, calm redness and irritation, and plump and strengthen the skin barrier.
“If we had to pick, it’s for the 20 to 35-year-olds who want results without BS,” says Curry. “They’re smart, savvy, and expect their skin care to work as hard as they do. They love a multi-tasking hero product that streamlines their routine, delivers big-time results, and doesn’t leave their wallet crying. Don’t sleep on exosomes. They’re not just another trend; they’re the future. They’re taking skin care from ‘meh’ to ‘whoa’ by working at the cellular level to heal, hydrate, and regenerate like nothing else.”
Activate: Success
As actives continue to deliver more sophisticated results, it will be key for suppliers to ensure the actives take additional factors into account.
“The true challenge in formulation lies in maintaining the stability of active compounds,” says Garcia. “To ensure these actives retain their full effectiveness throughout the entire lifecycle of the product, formulators must carefully select components, choose the right packaging, and consider optimal storage conditions. This attention to detail is key to preserving the integrity and efficacy of the final product.”
Garcia adds, “The search for ingredients that are both synergistic and compatible with active compounds is a complex process that demands a deep understanding of each component's chemical and biological characteristics. A well-crafted formulation that optimizes the interactions between ingredients can significantly enhance the effectiveness of cosmetic treatments while ensuring the safety and well-being of the skin. This careful approach paves the way for the development of high-performing, innovative products that deliver exceptional results without compromising on skin health.”
Provital's Nina Esposito highlights the 'skinification' trend, offering hydration, protection, and well-aging in one step.Provital USA
Nina Esposito, marketing director, Provital says, “Consumers are increasingly gravitating towards hybrid makeup products that seamlessly blend cosmetic allure with skin care advantages. This ‘skinification’ trend caters to the modern desire for multifunctional beauty solutions that not only enhance appearance but also nourish the skin. By incorporating potent ingredients like hero molecules, stem cells, antioxidants, and endophytes, these products offer hydration, well-aging benefits, and protection against environmental aggressors. This dual functionality streamlines beauty routines, providing convenience and aligning with a minimalist approach to personal care. As a result, individuals can achieve their desired aesthetic while simultaneously promoting long-term skin health.”
Kelly Stone, science communication specialist, Provital says, “Provital CareActives provide clinically tested results for many claims featured in functional makeup. Our Eye’Fective is the perfect multifunctional eye care solution with its synergistic blend of hawthorn and jasmine extracts. Amongst its many benefits, Eye’Fective reinforces the eye contour and lifts the eyelid helping to reduce the double fold. Linefill is our go-to solution for needle-free lip plumping as this oil-soluble sesame extract increases fat cell maturation and storage leaving lips visibly more voluminous. Finally, our Orchistem uses the power of orchid stem cells to increase growth factors and the regenerative potential of fibroblasts helping firm and contour the face.”
