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There's a reason Hailey Bieber's Rhode is getting in on beauty's peptide boom. The brand's forthcoming contouring Peptide Lip Shape is designed to "give your lips dimension" and volume thanks to the presence of a peptide paired with fenugreek extract.
The launch plays into the booming lip care category, of course, but also harnesses peptides, this year's hottest ingredient segment.
Medik8's newest launch, Liquid Peptides Advanced MP serum ($92, 30 ml) leverages a combination of bioengineered Dual MiniProteins that mimic neurtoxin treatments to smooth and firm the skin.Medik8
In fact, the serum is "clinically proven to reduce the appearance of expression lines in as little as 10 minutes, with 100% of participants reporting visible improvement."
The Dual MiniProteins reportedly "act like a perfectly shaped ‘key’ crafted to fit into the ‘locks’ of cell receptors responsible for producing collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid within the skin," in effect mimicking the aforementioned neurotoxin aesthetic treatments.
The formulation's Growth Factor MiniProtein is said to help boost the skin’s collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid levels for firmer, healthier-looking skin.
Its Multi-Peptide Complex (30%), meanwhile, comprises 13 peptides, including copper peptides and Sederma/Croda's Matrixyl 3000.
The formulation also features microencapsulated filler HA and a prebiotic complex for barrier support.
Medik8's newest launch, Liquid Peptides Advanced MP serum, reportedly delivers filler-like wrinkle relaxation, among other benefits.Medik8
Notably, the brand suggests the Liquid Peptides Advanced MP serum as a compliment to injectables (alongside or in between treatments).
New Peptide Innovation for Beauty
Why all this excitement around peptides? These materials were a major subject of conversation at the 2024 annual meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, thanks to the importance of peptides in addressing the hallmarks of aging and the overarching longevity movement.
Suppliers have been hard at work, launching new materials.
Shorter Hexapeptides for Deeper Skin Penetration
For instance, Mibelle Biochemistry has launched CollPerfect P6, an encapsulated bioactivating hexapeptide derived from the sequence of human skin type I collagen. According to the company, the ingredient's unique composition stimulates collagen synthesis and dermal remodeling for a more youthful, radiant appearance.
Delving deeper into the chemistry, as the company explains, CollPerfect P6 (INCI: Collagen Amino Acids (and) Lecithin (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua/Water) is a six amino acid peptide that "contains the characteristic triplet sequence Gly-X-Y of the native human skin type I collagen and its most abundant amino acids: Gly-HyP-Lys-Gly-Pro-Lys."
Mibelle Biochemistry adds that using a shorter hexapeptide improves the ingredient's penetration while the presence of Lys (lysine) improves its solubility. Building from this, the peptide is encapsulated in liposomes to ensure stability and delivery, then it is spray granulated onto maltodextrin to ensure a long shelf life.
CollPerfect P6 has been shown to improve various skin attributes. It acts through key mechanisms including:
- promoting procollagen I production,
- boosting hyaluronic acid release,
- protecting dermal collagen fibers from aging,
- tightening facial contours and
- increasing skin elasticity and density.
Based on the described mechanisms, CollPerfect P6 is positioned as a multifunctional that addresses the visible effects of aging at the root level. Indeed, clinical research underscores its efficacy in maintaining elasticity, firmness and a youthful skin structure.
Per the company, the ingredient responds to recent studies suggesting that declining collagen levels might not just be a consequence of aging, but a potential cause.
The ingredient is provided as a water-soluble powder without alcohol or preservatives. It is recommended at a use level of 2%.
PFAS-free Peptides for a New Era of Clean Beauty
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) have raised recent concerns due to their persistence in the environment and potential toxicity, spurring regulatory responses worldwide. In response, Croda Beauty highlighted its current PFAS-free peptides—a list it will continue to expand until all peptide offerings are PFAS-free.
"By eliminating substances like TFA (trifluoroacetic acid) from our peptide synthesis processes, we prioritize both consumer safety and sustainability," Croda Beauty explained. "Anticipating evolving regulations, we remain focused on delivering innovative solutions that uphold the highest standards of safety and efficacy."
According to Arp, et al., in Environmental Science and Technology, "TFA belongs to the subclass of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) known as ultrashort-chain perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs)." The authors added that currently, TFA concentrations are orders of magnitude higher than other per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), which is due to the material's use as a transformation product.
Thermo Scientific described TFA as "commonly used in the manufacturing process to release synthesized peptides from solid-phase resins...[as well as] during reversed-phase HPLC purification of peptides." The sourced added, "TFA is manufactured using acetate and fluoride as precursors, and residual levels of these compounds may be present whenever TFA is used. Residual TFA, fluoride, and to a much lesser extent, acetate are toxic and undesirable in peptides intended for preclinical and clinical studies."
Arp, et al., concurred: "There are indications from mammalian toxicity studies that TFA is toxic to reproduction and that it exhibits liver toxicity," the authors wrote, adding that while ecotoxicity data is scarce, collective trends imply that TFA "meets the criteria of a planetary boundary threat for novel entities because of increasing planetary-scale exposure."
According to Croda Beauty, its current PFAS-free peptides include:
- Biopeptide CL,
- Maxi-Lip,
- Bio-Bustyl PH,
- Matrixyl Synthe 6,
- Volulip,
- Silverfree,
- Biopeptide EL,
- Dermaxyl,
- Calmosensine and
- Idealift.
"We are committed to progressively expanding this list to achieve a PFAS-free status across our entire peptide range by the end of 2026," the company announced.
A Synthetic Peptide for Slow Aging
BASF has launched a new synthetic peptide for skin care that aligns with the slow aging trend. Inspired by the natural regenerative process of the skin, and based on a naturally occurring human biopeptide, Pepsensyal (INCI: Mannitol (and) Acetyl sh-Tetrapeptide-1 (and) Lauroyl sh-Tetrapeptide-1) has been clinically proven to reduce and delay the first visible signs of aging, the company reports. The ingredient is additionally free of preservatives and 99% of natural origin.
In a double-blind, randomized, split-face clinical trial of 32 women (44 to 64 years old), Pepsensyal at 0.2% was tested against a placebo product.
According to BASF, after just 14 days of product application:
- Subjects' crow's feet appeared smoother, with an 11% decrease in average roughness and a 14% decrease in maximum relief amplitude; and
- Skin isotropy increased by 15%, indicating a skin resurfacing effect.
Furthermore, Pepsensyal was proven to replenish the skin from the inside. After 28 days of product application, the skin had re-densified, with a 21% increase in the echogenic surface area of the dermis. Extensive in vitro testing additionally confirmed the ingredient's ability to support skin regeneration, helping to slow the visible signs of skin aging.
The new ingredient was reportedly developed in response to the slow-aging trend, which reflects a shift in consumer attitudes about aging. Rather than fighting the natural aging process, consumers are increasingly focused on healthy aging through a holistic, preventative approach to skin care.
Improving Peptide Active Stability & Penetration
Beauty's elevated efficacy movement now has another tool in its repertoire. Biotech firm Core Biogenesis has reportedly confirmed its oleosome-protein fusions are 10x more stable than conventional proteins and peptide-based actives, allowing for penetration deep into the dermis. According to the company, superior efficacy is the result.
The company, whose oleosome-protein fusions include Peauvita (FGF-2-oleosome) and Peauforia (EGF-oleosome), operates a plant biofactory greenhouse in Strasbourg, France.
There, biomimetic proteins and peptides are produced within Camelina sativa plants; these actives are then fused with naturally occurring spherical oleosome carriers comprising phospholipids, oil and vitamin E.
This fusion stabilizes the protein and peptide structures and facilitates deep delivery, as validated through skin explant studies conducted by the company.
“Traditionally, large peptides and proteins have struggled to penetrate the skin due to their size and instability,” says Alexandre Reeber, president and CEO of Core Biogenesis. “Our studies conclusively show that oleosome-protein fusions deliver actives to the dermis, while protein alone stops in the epidermis—a transformational result for the industry.”
The positive initial results have led the company to develop other proteins and peptides at its plant biofactory site.
“Beyond growth factors, we’ve successfully produced many proteins and peptides using our platform, addressing stability and delivery challenges that have limited innovation in the market,” says Tony Abboud, chief commercial officer (CCO) at Core Biogenesis. “This capability opens the door to co-developing next-generation actives with ingredient suppliers and brands for the personal care, health and wellness sectors.”
